Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
