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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the family totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary achievement.